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近代和现代是东西方文化交融的重要时期。这段时期国人的服装开始从峨冠博带的袍服制演变为轻便实用的西式服装。在这个变革过程中,出现了一个令人瞩目的裁缝群体,他们顺应历史潮流,突破传统模式,致力西服研制,培养专业人才,为中国近现代服装的形成和发展作出了杰出贡献。他们就是开一代新风的宁波“红帮裁缝”。
在中国服装史上,“红帮裁缝”创立了五个第一:
中国第一套西装,
第一套中山装,
第一家西服店,
第一部西服理论专著,
第一家西服工艺学校。
红帮发起了中国服装史上最富有革命意义的一次变革,揭开了中国现代服装史崭新的一页,“红帮”也因此成为中国服装史上影响最大、最深、最久的一个服装流派。
红帮的历史贡献还不仅仅于此,而是在长期的发展中不断地将一些独特的文化内涵注入到服装中去。 一件衣服上要有几只口袋、袋盖的形状、纽扣的多少、领口的设计,都有独特的文化内蕴。即使是今天,红帮前人对服饰文化的精彩诠释,仍让后人们惊叹不已,受用不尽。正是有了一整套基于深厚的文化内涵,科学又合乎中国实情的制作体系和理论体系,红帮在发展了二三十年后,已不再是个只会实干、只求实功实利的民间自发的初级流派,而是一个有理论支持、名师辈出、名店林立、著名产品不断涌现,具有良好的培训机制,在全国服装行业中独领风骚,引导中国服装艺术新潮、主潮的主导性流派。1956年,“波纬”、“雷蒙”等20多家著名的服装店从上海迁往北京,绝不是偶然的,而是红帮发展的必由之路、必然趋势。他们无疑代表了当时中国服装界的最高水平。
Modern and modern is an important period for the integration of eastern and western cultures. During this period, the clothing of Chinese people began to evolve from the clothing of the emb to the casual and practical western clothing. Appeared in the process of the change, a group of remarkable tailor, they comply with the historical trend, break through the traditional model, research, cultivate professional talents, committed to suit for the formation and development of Chinese modern clothing has made an outstanding contribution. They are the new generation of ningbo "red help tailor".
In the history of Chinese clothing, the "red seamstress" created five first:
China's first suit,
The first set of zhongshan suits,
The first suit shop,
The first treatise on suits,
The first suit craft school.
GongBang launched Chinese costume on one of the most rich revolutionary change, opened the new chapter of the history of Chinese modern costume, "GongBang" became the greatest influence on Chinese costume, deepest, most long a clothing styles.
The historical contribution of the red gang is not only that, but also to inject some unique cultural connotation into the garment in the long term development. A garment should have several pockets, the shape of the bag cover, the number of buttons, the design of the neckline, all have unique cultural connotation. Even today, the brilliant interpretation of the dress culture by the people of the red gang still makes people wonder and use it. It is a set of based on the profound cultural connotation, scientific and accord with the truth of Chinese production system and theory system, after GongBang developed two hundred and thirty years ago, is no longer a can work, practical work only a utilitarian folk spontaneous primary schools, but a theory support, masters and heroines, restaurant chains and famous products are constantly emerging, has the good training mechanism, in the national garment industry, guide the trendy, becomes the dominant schools of Chinese clothing art. In 1956, more than 20 famous clothing stores, such as "wave weft" and "Raymond", moved from Shanghai to Beijing, not by chance, but by the inevitable trend of the development of red gang. They undoubtedly represent the highest level of clothing in China at that time.